Lord Crewe Arms Hotel review: 850 years of history and the warmest welcome

A historic site set on the Northumberland moors where visitors have enjoyed hospitality for centuries.

Lord Crewe ArmsThis moorland inn on the border between Northumberland and County Durham has been welcoming weary travelers for over 850 years. Originally a monastery founded in 1165, then an abbey, the main house and rooms are the old abbot’s chambers and guest house, meaning it was purpose-built to do exactly what it still does – centuries later. And during this time they have seriously succeeded in this.

History permeates every corner, from the wide stone floors to the apartment windows, some of which feature stained glass. In the large fireplace you can see the priest’s hole, where the rebel general hid during the Jacobite rising. The staircase leading to the breakfast room is crisscrossed with the footsteps of generations of monks tramping up and down it. Literary heroes from WH Auden to Philip Larkin have enjoyed the hospitality here, so as we walked into the reception area, where a crackling fire provides relief from the chill of the Northumbrian air, we immediately felt we were in great company.

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Why visit the Lord Crewe Arms in Northumberland?

The small details at this hotel turn a pleasant stay into a truly unforgettable one. Every morning at breakfast there is a printout of the daily news, which tells you about the weather, suggests good walks in the local area, gives brief updates on local suppliers or the hotel, and details of any additional activities that may be happening – flower arranging classes, wine tasting or their famous stargazing nights in the gardens (the skies here are some of the darkest in the country).

Our room was decorated with impeccable taste – chic but homely, with crisp white linens, a checkered blanket and matching pillows. This is the type of rustic chic I’d like to master myself, but I’m afraid it will end up looking like a tweet. This is wrong. The room overlooked an ancient courtyard where carriages once pulled up, and again there were small additional details that stood out. Fluffy hot water bottle. Chef’s homemade cookies.

Dogs are warmly welcome in many rooms (£25 per dog, up to two people), with their own bed and bowl. towel and refreshments upon arrival, and can accompany you almost anywhere in the hotel except the main dining room (down there, with the grand fireplace, they can join you). Dirty rubber boots don’t bother them either, as the hotel offers boots to borrow, as well as hairdressing supplies, fishing equipment, e-bikes and binoculars. There is even a weapons room.

Food at the Lord Crewe Arms

Country inns tend to use words like “hearty fair” or “gastropub”, but the food here really is a cut above – Lord Crewe has quite a foodie following. Up the stairs in the Bishop’s dining room we settled into a feast that began with a local hero – a twice-baked Northumberland cheese soufflé that sizzled and bubbled beautifully in front of me as it was set down. All local flavors are celebrated here, with the exception of Pan Haggerty, venison legs, gammon, haggis and sides harvested from their own gardens. I had the buttery fish with a salty caper dressing, but my husband’s venison was the highlight.

Overlooking the tidy courtyard lawn and the rocky hills beyond, breakfast is equally delightful, with homemade jams, local butter and fresh juice. As well as the buffet there is a cooked to order menu, from which I couldn’t resist the smoked fish (a rare treat south of the Scottish border) and my husband opted for a full English.

What can you do while staying at the Lord Crewe Arms?

From the front door there are beautiful walks in either direction along the River Derwent or up into the wild moorland above. Some truly spectacular sights in the North Pennines National Landscape and Northumberland National Park are also easily accessible by car. Hadrian’s Wall is about 30 minutes north. High and Low Force Falls and Cauldron Spout are about 40 minutes southwest.

We stopped here while driving the Northumberland 250 route, which runs along the coast past Alnwick and Lindisfarne, then down through Kielder Forest and past Hadrian’s Wall. The route goes straight through the village.

How to book your stay at this Northumbria retreat

Overnight stays including breakfast from £215. Dinner, bed and breakfast from £293 for two. See lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk at the best prices.