Santa Ana Travel Guide: Volcanoes, Coffee & Colonial Streets
Although I had been encouraged by many travellers to skip San Salvador, El Salvador’s sprawling capital (often described as crowded and lacking major attractions), the same could not be said for Santa Ana.
Everyone I had met during my trip in El Salvador had raved about Santa Ana – whether it was the beautiful streets lined with pastel colored colonial buildings or its almost fake-looking volcanic backdrop rising dramatically behind the city. From the get-go, I knew it was not a place I would pass by.
Arriving in Santa Ana by motorbike involved navigating a few awkward road closures, unexpected detours, and one-way streets, but it was not nearly as stressful as other cities I had had the pleasure (or displeasure) of riding through.
The hardest part wasn’t the traffic; it was trying to stay focused on the directions and not get distracted by the picturesque streets as I searched for my hostel.
As I edged closer to the Google Maps pin marking Casa Isabel, I found myself passing by the Santa Ana Cathedral as dusk settled over the city. The white Neo-Gothic spires were glowing against the darkening sky, and this made it even harder to follow my navigation system.
Without much effort, I had already been welcomed by one of the city’s best attractions, and at that point, I was already very impressed.
I may have spent the first half of my El Salvador adventure chasing waves along the Pacific coast and watching the most incredible sunsets, but arriving in Santa Ana was the Salvadoran city experience I didn’t know I needed. The country’s second biggest city was vibrant but not overwhelming, and charming but not intimidating, like some must-see destinations can be.
It felt as though Santa Ana was not trying to impress me in an obvious way, but somehow this city won over someone who doesn’t always fall for cities, and that is a bold statement. I remember feeling the excitement of what was yet to come.
Location & how to get there
Santa Ana is located in Western El Salvador, not far from the Guatemalan border, which makes it a popular first stop in the country for those travelling south. Because it is so close to some of El Salvador’s best attractions, I had come to learn that many fellow travellers used it as a base for their adventures.
I, on the other hand, did things the opposite way around, as I almost always do. Because I was craving some sun, sea and sand, my first stop was El Salvador’s Pacific Coast, but not before a road trip along the Ruta de las Flores. Looking back, I’ve come to realise that travelling this route was not all that efficient, since I had made it all the way down to the surf town of El Tunco before eventually backtracking over two hours north to visit Santa Ana.
With that in mind, I would suggest beginning your trip in Santa Ana if you are travelling south or following my route if you are travelling north, which saves you time – and makes much more sense.
I arrived in Santa Ana on my motorbike, but El Salvador has a great bus service throughout the country, so this is not essential. If you are flying into San Salvador, Santa Ana is just over 90 minutes north, and can be reached by bus, which leaves from the Terminal de Buses Occidente. Alternatively, you can rent a car at San Salvador airport, which can give you great freedom if you plan to venture to the Ruta de las Flores or throughout this small country.
You can see a lot in El Salvador in a short time, whether you are travelling by bus or by car, so the choice is yours. If you are hiring a car, I would not worry too much about bad roads or heavy traffic.
In my experience, El Salvador has some of the best and most scenic roads in Central America, comparable to the US or Europe, which cannot be said for other Central American destinations.
Where to stay in Santa Ana
Santa Ana is a dream destination for accommodation options, probably because it is a prime base for many tourists and backpackers. No matter your budget, you will find something to suit you and your preferences, but I would recommend staying close to the old town.
It can be quite nice to stay outside the city and venture in and out as you wish, but I loved being able to take an evening walk from my hostel, Casa Isabel, to enjoy the city’s architecture as it transforms with the daylight.
Since I was travelling with my dog, it was also nice to have picturesque streets and well-maintained parks to take a nice walk, not to mention great little shops, food stalls and supermarkets on my doorstep.
Below are some of the best places to stay in Santa Ana for all budgets, including Casa Isabel, which I found to be a great hangout for every kind of traveller.
Budget ($15 – $30)
- Casa Isabel – a budget guesthouse in an old high-ceilinged building, ~10 min walk from the square, built around a lush and social courtyard.
- Altea Hostel – a renovated B&B, 7 minutes from the square. The owner, Erik, cooks breakfast (free) and arranges tours – most of the praise points at him.
- Casa Central de Santa Ana – central location (under 5 min to the cathedral) with A/C, private bathroom, keypad entry, and a shared kitchen.
see all hostels from $15/NIGHT
Midrange ($35 – $50)
- Hostal Las Puertas – Rooms around a quiet interior courtyard with private bathrooms, strong A/C, filtered water, smart TVs, and kitchenettes.
- Casa Vieja Guesthouse – A welcoming family-run colonial guesthouse built around two leafy courtyards. The owner can organise volcano hikes, airport transfers, and custom tours and serves a varied homemade breakfast.
- Hostal Casa Verde – Santa Ana’s classic backpacker stay, with a pool, rooftop terrace, two communal kitchens, generous breakfast, and a sociable atmosphere.
Luxury ($60 – $100)
- Remfort Hotel Antigua – One of Santa Ana’s newest boutique hotels, about a 10 min walk from the centre, with a pool, secure parking, and a well-rated cooked-to-order breakfast.
- Villa Napoli – A cozy hotel with a pool, hammocks, an on-site restaurant serving pizza and pupusas. The staff can also arrange transport and day trips.
- Kali Hotel – A boutique stay inside a beautifully restored 1952 building, featuring elegant rooms and a rooftop terrace with views towards Santa Ana Cathedral.
Things to do in Santa Ana
Visit the beautiful Santa Ana Cathedral
The Santa Ana Cathedral is a prime focal point in the city, and it is one of the most striking cathedrals you will see in the region.
Located in the heart of the historic centre, you cannot miss this iconic building if you are strolling around, but I would highly recommend visiting it during the day and again in the evening.
Seeing it illuminated at night was certainly an image that became etched in my memory, and I think this is the best time to experience this historic monument.
Grab a brew from Cadek Cafe
Santa Ana is a hub for coffee, but let’s face it, you will find many hubs for coffee throughout Latin America. However, I would strongly suggest that you take some time to try out the local specialties, which differ from country to country and even from region to region.
After some research, I chose to visit Cadek Cafe.
Apart from being dog-friendly, the coffee menu was extensive, and you could tell that the staff were passionate professionals, judging by the excellent creations and coffee knowledge. This is certainly the place to ask questions if you’re not sure what to order.
While here, I also met a local tour guide, Hector, who told me that he takes his tour groups (and his dog) here for the same reason, and everyone seemed to love it as much as I did. I ordered an Americano, but there are plenty of options, as well as a list of delicious pastries and savoury snacks if you are hungry.
Tip: It’s worth noting that the cafe sometimes looks closed when the doors are shut, but just knock, and they will let you in – this alone gives it a kind of hip, underground speakeasy vibe, which I loved.
Take a free walking tour of Santa Ana
This brings me to my next point. Hector, whom I had met at Cadek Cafe, is a well-known local tour guide who is knowledgeable and super friendly.
He offers free English walking tours of Santa Ana, taking you to all the nooks and crannies of the city while giving you intricate details that you might never know while exploring alone. I find these types of walking tours so interesting, but also an amazing way to meet other travellers and perhaps find travel buddies.
Alternatively, you can stroll around by yourself, and if so, do not miss the stunning Santa Ana Theatre, which is yet another impressive building right beside Parque Libertad. If you have time, you can also see a show here, which I plan to do next time I visit this captivating city.
7 free walking tours to discover
Day trips from Santa Ana
1. Essential stop: Tazumal Mayan Ruins
If you love history, culture and visiting ancient ruins, then Santa Ana is a great place to base yourself. From here, you have many archaeological sites to choose from.
Tazumal Mayan Ruins are just 20 minutes from Santa Ana and are a fantastic site to place high on your list, given the fact that it is regarded as the oldest archaeological site in Central America and was the first to be created in El Salvador.
Having travelled extensively around Mexico, I was quite familiar with Mayan ruins, but found that each ancient settlement I visited throughout Central America, whether it be Copan in Honduras or Tikal in Guatemala, fascinated me with both its differences and its similarities.
2. Visit El Salto de Malacatiupan
If you have time after Tazumal, you can continue 30 minutes west to El Salto de Malacatiupan, which is a rather perfect place to relax after a day of exploring.
My visit to this waterfall was one of my favourite things to do near Santa Ana, and I could tell it was also a local favourite.
Couples enjoyed romantic waterside picnics, children splashed in and out of the warm water, and I noticed a few travellers soaking up the rays in their own private sun traps. This was, in fact, the first thermal waterfall (created by El Salvador’s volcanic activity).
You can easily walk around to a few viewpoints to capture the cascading falls from various angles, but then I strongly suggest backtracking to find a calm spot by the warm river to enjoy a blissful soak. There’s also a guided ATV tour that turns the trip itself into the activity, taking you along bumpy backroads with the warm river waiting at the end.
Book the ATV Tour to the Hot Springs
3. Don’t miss Joya de Cerén
The UNESCO site of Joya de Cerén is another one for history buffs eager to dive into more Pre-Columbian heritage. What makes this settlement so interesting is that it was buried beneath volcanic ash following an eruption, and because personal belongings, food, and houses were preserved under the ash, it became known as the “Pompeii of America”.
This fact alone makes it a rather intriguing place to feast your eyes on. Joya de Cerén is located about halfway between Santa Ana and San Salvador, so it could also be a stop-off if you are travelling in this direction.
If you are craving more history and heritage, then Parque Arqueológico San Andrés can also be visited from Joya de Cerén, if time allows.
4. Ruta de las Flores
The Ruta de las Flores is an iconic road trip you have to experience while in El Salvador, and if you are short on time, then you can do this from Santa Ana.
Technically, this route stretches from Sonsonate to Ahuachapán or vice versa, but if you are visiting from Santa Ana, I would suggest skipping these two major towns and focusing on the five iconic colonial towns that make this route famous.
The main towns to visit are Nahuizalco, Juayúa, Salcoatitán, Apaneca and Concepción de Ataco, but I would travel south along the Ruta de las Flores so you can end in the authentic town of Nahuizalco, which is home to a great night market – the perfect place to grab some souvenirs and some local food before venturing back to Santa Ana.
5. Feast your eyes on Lago de Coatapeque
If you are travelling to Santa Ana from San Salvador, like I was (coming from the coast), then you will pass by Lago de Coatapeque. Having ridden for a few hours from El Tunco, this was the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fresh fish with the most incredible lake view.
I chose to stop at Restaurante Vista Lago because the setting was picture-perfect, but there are plenty of similar places to choose from in this area.
A few days later, I returned to the lake from Santa Ana to see it close up and go for a dip with my dog, which was so much fun. I would suggest doing this when the weather is sunny and warm, and the lake reveals its true turquoise beauty.
It is quite a local spot too, so you will see a lot of fishermen and locals going about their day, but there are plenty of small nooks to chill out and enjoy the surroundings.
6. Hike at Parque Nacional Los Volcanes
El Salvador is known for its volcanic landscape, and this is one reason why I loved the time I spent travelling around – the scenery was outstanding. You can see volcanoes throughout the country, one of which is San Miguel Volcano, the most active in the country and a real treat for the eyes if you are visiting the south of El Salvador.
Santa Ana, however, is the perfect place to enjoy a day trip to the ultimate volcano destination, Parque Nacional Los Volcanes, which is home to three famous volcanoes – Santa Ana, Izalco and Cerro Verde. Unfortunately for me, the park is not dog-friendly, so my first attempt was a wasted journey, and I had to return a second time while my dog relaxed at the hostel. But it was totally worth it!
The hike to Santa Ana is extremely popular, but challenging, while the hike to Cerro Verde is much easier and perfectly catered to me at that time. I enjoyed the mix of mystical cloud forests, birdlife and ample flora, as well as the amazing views all around me.
The hike was quite short, which meant that my dog was not left alone for too long, but one day I would love to return to experience the Santa Ana hike or even Izalco if I can face the challenge.
Where to eat and drink
Santa Ana has an abundance of places to eat and drink, and you should know that not all of these spots can be found on Google. Oftentimes, I find the best places to eat while walking around and discovering where the locals eat, and usually the best food comes from food vendors or comedores.
In Santa Ana, I was determined to find the best coffee, but in between, I discovered some great eateries too. Below, I have listed some of my recommendations.
- Cadek Cafe $: Apart from the delicious coffee, friendly service and mouthwatering cakes, one of the best things here was the AC – which was a fantastic way to cool off while wandering the city. Here you can take your pick of speciality coffee and buy coffee beans, but I can also imagine that it would be a pretty great place to set up a laptop and get some work done in a cosy atmosphere.
- Cafe Tejas $$: For cool vibes and great food in a funky treehouse establishment, Cafe Tejas is the place to check out. It is conveniently located beside Parque Libertad in the heart of town, so prices can be a little higher than elsewhere, but it is completely worth it.
The tropical garden area is a quirky place to enjoy some food and drinks or perhaps a daytime coffee, while taking a break from people watching in the nearby park. - La Neveria $ What can I say? As soon as I discovered La Neveria – a chain of ice cream stores around El Salvador and some other neighbouring countries, I was sold.
This was always a treat for me after a day of adventuring or wandering the city, and my ultimate favourite option was the chocolate-dipped double-scoop cone with sprinkles. You will find a few locations around Santa Ana, so if you have a sweet tooth or you want a refreshing treat, you should definitely try out this local spot. - Kekas Place $$ This is a really cool place to eat in the centre of Santa Ana, and the reviews are not overrated. The food is excellent, so you cannot go wrong with your order, and the atmosphere is so charming that you will want to hang around a little longer to soak it all up.
Of course, this is one of the pricier options in the city, but it is a nice experience if you fancy treating yourself to a delicious meal after a day of exploring the historic centre.
The best time to visit
November – April is the dry season in El Salvador, and this is when I visited.
I was in Santa Ana during the festive season and loved seeing the city light up at night. You will experience minimal rainfall and clear skies during this time, which is ideal for exploring, especially if you are spending time outdoors discovering ancient ruins or relaxing at a waterfall.
December was rather busy with locals and some tourists, but if you prefer fewer crowds, I often find that visiting in the shoulder season means that you get the best of both worlds – fewer people and favourable weather. With that in mind, I would say that November and March are great months to visit, and you may even save some money in these off-peak times, too.
Essential travel tips
- If you are short on time, I would say that Tazumal Mayan Ruins and Joya de Cerén are well worth visiting in one day (if you start early) since they offer a great insight into the local culture, and this aspect is one of the highlights of El Salvador.
- You don’t need your own transport to get around Santa Ana or to reach the nearby attractions, but if you plan to see and do a lot in a short time and don’t want to rely on buses, then hiring a car will prove to be invaluable.
- If you happen to be travelling with a dog, I did discover that the surrounding areas are dog-friendly, and you can enjoy great views of the volcanoes from afar. Following my refusal from the park, I opted to visit El Jardin de Los Volcanes, a nearby campsite that fellow travellers had told me about. This was a great place for a walk to the many viewpoints.
- Buses to many of these attractions are frequent from Santa Ana if you want to travel independently, but alternatively, you can book guided tours or drive there with your own car/motorbike, as I did.
- The currency in El Salvador is the USD and has been since 2001, but interestingly, you will see Bitcoin being accepted in many places too.
Next on the map
From Santa Ana, El Salvador, is your oyster, but I would suggest venturing towards the Pacific Coast and visiting some of the beautiful coastal towns like El Tunco or El Zonte, known for their thriving surf culture. Alternatively, you could stop en route to explore more of the Ruta de las Flores, and if you choose this option, I recommend Juayua as a base.
I did not visit San Salvador and met many who urged me not to, even people who were from there, so save your time for volcanoes, surf beaches, and Mayan ruins – you won’t regret it.
